Saved on Sifnos - a travel story out of the Aegean Sea that includes little harbours, sleeping villages, several tavernas, a ferry onward, a Greek cultures festival and a room with a view, travelogue, trip, travel, Greece, Cyclades, Sifnos, Kythnos, ferry, island-hopping



A Lempira note

December 20, 2000
Coxen Hole Wanderings

We awoke this morning to find the weather torrential. Sometime in the night the rain had started and by this morning it was blowing sideways and the channel separating our key and the dock had turned into a raging river. Morning dives were canceled and two afternoon dives were planned for the south side of the island which is supposedly sheltered from the storm. After yesterday's experience I wasn't quite yet ready to go back in the water in anything less than optimum conditions. David was, as usual, raring to go, so he left on the bus to go over to the dive sites.

At lunch we met up with three Australians whom we had met on the boat yesterday. They invited me to join them for a trip into "town", Coxen Hole. Because I was the only one with any Spanish language skills I was nominated to negotiate with the cabdriver. We took a taxi from the main road in front of the resort and it cost us about a dollar each. The cabdriver already had one passenger in the front who moved to the back. Two of us squeezed into the front seat and the other two squeezed into the back with the woman. The car was tiny and the windshield was cracked.

The first goal was to find internet access and the taxi dropped us at the "Que Tal? Cafe" which supposedly has good breakfast and lunch (we did not eat) and 2 computers with internet access. Internet access is incredibly expensive and slow here as the server is on the mainland and a long distance phone call away. Six minutes to check hotmail (and get disconnected before I could send anything) cost me 20L. From there we walked through the town down to the water where we could see a giant cruise ship docked in the harbor. We went into the town's largest grocery store where we purchased snacks and drinks to help offset the exorbitant rates of the resort.

After the foray into the store, we continued walking along the main street in the direction of what we thought to be the main road back to the resort. Suddenly, we found ourselves in the 'burbs of Coxen Hole and quickly running out of pavement. The homes here are all up on stilts and painted vibrant colors, much like one imagines of the Caribbean. Fortunately we could see the airport close by and knew the road had to be somewhere. With the local residents eying us with interest we kept walking until we found the road.
A cab finally stopped and again I put my limited language skills to use. He wanted 100 L ($6.60) to take us back to the resort and we waved him on. Another cab drove up and when I asked him how much, he too said 100L, but then again, we could hear that he had just been on a CB radio with the previous driver. I countered with 15 L each, he accepted, and off we went; with another cracked windshield and blasting American country music the entire way back.

Part 10: Moka Pie?

this travelogue is part of the subside travelzine
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