between the Nakvak and the Korok: an expedition to the Torngat mountains. Hiking through the Valley of the cirques, climbing Mont d'Iberville, fishing in the Nakvak Valley, Canada, Torngat Mountains, northern Québec, trek, Nakvak, Korok, icefield, caribou trail, summit, travelogue, trip, travel, hike


Street Vendor


Friday, November 14
A moment in Pokhara

Pokhara is a very laid back place compared to Kathmandu. The tourist section is mainly along the road beside the beautiful lake. Shops, restaurants, and internet cafes line the road. One of the shops belongs to Krishna, Rob's friend and our guide to be for the trek. It's one of many shops in a basic shelter type of building, more like a garage than a shop. In the back they can cook, but I did not see on what. The walls are hung with backpacks and trekking gear for sale, knock offs of the expensive brands, but we didn't see them sell much. There are many many such shops along the road.

Krishna is 30ish, with a great smile and laugh. He speaks English fairly well, and he was delighted to see Rob. The next morning, with the white peaks of the Annapurnas looming in the distance, we gathered to finalize the details of the trek. The morning had started with roosters crowing at 4:00 AM, hours before dawn. And I had gone for a walk at dawn to watch the town awaken. Later we gathered and went to the shop. Even though we had already had breakfast (oat porridge for me) on the big second floor balcony at the hotel, Krishna insisted on feeding us breakfast of tea with ginger, toast, eggs, and curried potatoes. We sorted out the logistics and the equipment.

Later Rob, Andy, and I rented a boat, rowed across the lake, and climbed up to the stupa. It was a spectacular view. On the shore of the lake some men were repairing one of the wooden boats (sort of a cross between our rowboat and a canoe) on the bank. They were replacing the boards that constituted the bottom of the boats, boards that run side to side. A man would carefully fit one, cutting it with a handsaw so that the ends exactly fit the shape of the bottom edges of the sides of the boat, where they were attached, with nails I think. Then he would cut and fit the next one. Meanwhile two women nearby were twisting cotton fibers, like cotton swab material, into a long rope. This was then used to caulk between the boards on the bottom of the boat. They must have sealed the whole thing with something after we left. But anyway, hand tools are much more prevalent in Nepal. I don't think I ever heard the song of a power saw.

The next day

this travelogue is part of the subside travelzine
about bookshelf links contact submit